This is the story of what I did, not instructions for you to follow step by step. Warning: Even though there is only 12V going into the MFD, LCDs create very high voltage using a step up transformer. This time I’ve re-soldered the damage using a soldering iron, and I also by-passed the suspect area with “green wire”. I attempted to repair a damaged solder connection using a reflow station on the first try. Since the MFD is a $4000 part, it’s probably worth spending some time to determine whether a reliable repair is possible, so we gave it another go. We fixed it once, but it only worked for a month. This is the story of an MFD that is in for it’s second repair. If not, we’ll remove it for you and re-install it after it’s repaired. He even has DIY instructions for removing the multi-display from the dash if you’d like to tackle it yourself. You’ll need to deal with him directly, since we don’t get in the middle of it. We’ve only seen one unit with a problem and he repaired under warranty it without any hassle. We’ve referred a lot of customers to him and his track record is very good. There’s a guy in Indiana who repairs Prius multi-displays and doesn’t charge a lot. UPDATE:I should have put this link in a long time ago. We have may not have perfected the repair procedure yet. We aren’t set up as a mail order repair service, and dealing with emails & shipping would be a pain.ģ. We don’t have a test bench set up to simulate a Prius, so we need to have the car here for testing.Ģ. Please don’t email or call to ask if you can send us your MFD for repair:ġ. It could be next month or next year.I’m going to start this page by giving credit where credit is due: Hobbit did the initial investigation of the 2004-2005 Prius Multi Function Display (MFD) communication failure issue, and everything I’ve done so far has been built on the work he has shared on his web site.
My guess is that sometime in the future you will have to have the accumulator replaced. The occassional one should be overlooked as worthless as even the Toyota dealer will be confused. Drive the car for at least 10 miles for the ecu to learn, if there is a problem with your vehicle then the check. One way is by disconnecting the battery cable for 2 to 3 minutes and waiting to see if the check engine light comes back on upon reconnecting the battery and start the car. They have always told you to ignore all unusual sounds and drive normally until you get a steady "idiot" light. There are a few ways to reset your Engine control modules. Same as just about any system in the Prius. Until you get any one steady light you really have no problem. Then one or the other warning light illuminates. The leak in the accumulator is usually in the "gas" side of the membrane. The brakes can be powered by either system and you get a separate warning light when the pressure is too low in either. That's the noise you hear when the electric pump comes on.
#PRIUS MASTER REBOOT FULL#
At a certain setting the electric hydraulic pump comes on to re-establish full system pressure. There is enough pressure stored in the "ball" by the movement of the membrane for many brake applications. The pressure is maintained by the membrane forcing the hydraulic pressure when the brakes are applied. (Picture a ball with a membrane dividing the center.) On one side of the membrane is hydraulic brake fluid and the other an inert gas. The brakes are mainly pressurized by the accumulator.
No, this one would have no indication of a fluid loss.